Parts of a flogger

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Improve Knowledge - September 15, The smartest and safest approach to any of this, especially when exploring, start with soft strokes, focusing on larger areas that are easier and safer to stroke buttocks, back, not shoulders or spine. As soon as someone says the identified safe word, this als to stop all activity. Make sure your safe word is something easy to remember, and not something that may likely come up in play.

Simply begin by giving your partner a few light strokes with a light flogger, and take your time. The more thorough the warm-up, the more prepared you and your partner will be. The main goal is to strike your flogger exactly where you intend it to go.

Practicing on parts of a flogger pillow or covering an area with a towel to practice your aim and accuracy will not only improve your skills, but improve the experience of your partner receiving the flogging. The two basic techniques to flogging are either single stroke or cyclic flogging. Single stroke flogging focuses on one single stroke at a time.

As soon as the strands fall after a stroke, you can prepare for the next stroke. Cyclic flogging is a series of strokes that flow into the next stroke, continuing the momentum, creating a more rhythmic pattern. Areas to flog light Lightly : For those that do not stick to flogging only the back, here are some areas to proceed highly with caution: Lower legs, breasts, genitals, arms, uppers shoulders for reasons of accuracyribs where they are not protected by muscle, the muscular ridge on both sides of the spine for reasons of accuracyand top of the butt near the spine.

Areas to avoid at all times: For safety reasons, never flog the face, head, neck, the fingers, toes, or over skin that is still healing. Please keep in mind, the feet and hands contain many tiny bones, and rarely heal well once broken. Inexperienced Dominants can quickly wear themselves out with so much physical activity that it is no wonder they can only last ten minutes or so in a scene, while endorphin levels require far more time than that to build up to appreciable levels to be deeply felt by the one being flogged.

Proper flogging technique goes beyond just looking good. It is about building endorphin levels for a bottom responsibly enough to stick with it until the deed is truly done. The point of flogging is to strike a specific area of the back repeatedly with accuracy to allow a build-up of endorphins to take place. Then we move to another spot and give it a few flails. Then we move to still another. At no time do we ever strike the kidney area which is three to five inches above the buttocks line.

Wrapping this way accelerates the speed of the tips enormously, creating an unintentionally extremely painful effect parts of a flogger will NOT be appreciated by your victim at all. You want to strike only the place you had intended to. To do this with repeatable accuracy, stand squarely with feet planted firmly on the ground. Stand up erect and proud, like a Titan, a King or Queen, or an Amazon. Raise the arm holding the flogger handle regally. It can help to hold the tails of the flogger with the other hand, gathering them into your palm and tugging gently against your other hand.

Now, gently drop your arm downwards as you release the flails with the other hand. Did they strike where you had intended? If not, move your feetnot your upper body, to adjust. No leaning forward! No turning at the waist! No reaching with the shoulders! Once the landing is affirmed to be correct, continue to stand regal, tall and proud.

Raise the flogger arm again, take hold of the tails, and let your arm drop again, this time with more speed. Do you wish to move the position of the flogger?

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Do not reach with your upper body, or twist the body in any way. Move your feet! Then regain that regal stance of pride and control, of firmness and deity-like compassion, raise the arm up, and let it drop gently to test the position. Is the landing position correct? Then raise the arm once again, and parts of a flogger it drop with more force this time. Raise the arm and repeat again. You are hitting the exact same spot over and over again with accuracy and precision!

And it is nearly effortless! You could easily last two hours working your subject in this manner. The reason why trying to flog by reaching, turning the waist, leaning with the shoulders and upper body, or changing the angle of the stroke does not work is that all these movements are simply too much even for the miraculous human body to keep track.

The amazing brain we have simply cannot keep all of these movements coordinated repeatedly each and every time. Eventually, it will get confused and you will have struck the kidneys parts of a flogger wrapped the shoulders or sides which stings times worse than what you had intended and said the single worst thing any Titan, King, Queen, Amazon or Compassionate Deity could ever say, namely:.

Practice flogging from a standing position, moving only your arm and adjusting your position by moving your feet only. Use a pillow for target practice first, aiming the flogger at specific points. Would you like to flog from the side? Lie the subject down on a table and continue to flog using the arm-dropping move, always testing your standing position, always standing with regal pride.

This is a formal flaying you are applying to your subject. You are the one in complete control. Stand like it, so you genuinely feel it. So satisfying! Now, mix it up and use paddles on the bottom and slappers on just about anywhere. Try a quirt. Try clothespins and hair-clips. Try a Whartenburg wheel. Then back to the regal stance and more flogging. It is recommended to avoid wrapping the ends of the flogger. Ideally, you want to pick the spot where you want the flogger to go, and aim the tips of your flogger there.

Time and practice will help you avoid wrapping. Practicing will help you learn to avoid wrapping, as well as other dangerous mistakes, like hitting the kidneys, or striking sensitive nerves. For added safety, have band-aids available and apply them as soon as there is any break in the skin.

If any blood or body secretions are on the tails, wipe them off with a dry cloth while wearing gloves. Ideally, it is recommended to avoid getting blood and other fluids on the floggers. Aftercare is an important part of any BDSM scene. Taking the time to take care of your partner, addressing any physical pains or marks they received during the process. Even applying lotion or necessary ointment to any marks and scars to help the healing process begin shows responsible play and appreciation to your submissive partner.

Responsible, accurate, and safe flogging requires practice, research, talking with your partners, and others who are more experienced and comfortable with flogging. Flogging is meant to be erotic and arousing, but is also very dangerous. You might not realize it, but the color choice of your flogger determines a lot about what selection will be available to you. Quite a few floggers are produced in a sultry black or red color.

If you want something more playful like light pink or blue, you may have to search a bit harder. If you have a favorite color or if you want to portray a certain mood during your playtime, selecting the right color is important. Floggers run across the entire price range.

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For a professional, weighted flogger, you can easily spend hundreds of dollars. You can even find people who can make a custom flogger for you if the price is right. If your budget is an important factor, you should decide how much you want to spend before you go shopping. It won't be weighted or made from luxurious materials, but it will work just fine for a playful evening.

Different materials and fabrics will produce different sensations. Of course, there are floggers that fall outside of this guide. The more firm a material is, the more intense the sensation it can provide. The lighter a flogger is, the more stingy and painful the flogger can feel. Heavier floggers with heavier materials tend to provide more of the "massage" sensation. These "massage" floggers are usually made from heavy suede or leather.

If at all possible, it really helps to try the flogger out in person. Making sure no one is around, try a light smack of the flogger onto your thigh. Do NOT do it on the wrist or forearm. It's very easy to hurt yourself or nerves on your arm. Floggers consist of strands of leather or sometimes other materials called falls.

The falls are attached to a handle, or hilt, also wrapped with leather for easier gripping. The hilt sometimes has a ball that separates it from the falls, and another ball on the opposite end, parts of a flogger the pommel. Pommels can have a loop or ring for hanging the flogger when not in use. Sensation — Floggers generate two main kinds of sensation: sting or thud. Sting is exactly what it sounds like: a sharp, stinging sensation that fades over time. Thud is a deeper, duller sensation than sting, and can feel more forceful. Think of it like a slap versus a punch.

Despite the intense sensations they create, neither type of flogger necessarily causes lasting damage to the body. Unbalanced vs Balanced — In a balanced flogger, the handle offsets the weight of the falls. Fancy is another term for balanced. The balancing is achieved by putting an elegant silver loop in the pommel.

Shot loaded floggers are balanced by installing pieces of lead into the handle. This allows for a smaller pommel and lets experienced users employ some advanced techniques.

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Types of Leather — The type of leather makes a huge difference in the feel of the flogger. Keep in mind that leather is a natural product, and there will be variation from one batch to the next. Comparing two toys made from oiled leather, one might be a bit thicker than the other, or stiffer, or harder, or softer, or different shades of black.

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Suede is soft leather and quite flexible, delivering a nice thud mixed with just a little sting. Oiled Leather is the most serious of all the possible leathers. This is the tool of choice for experienced players who are into major sting and possibly some pain. Floggers made of oiled leather can deliver such intense sensation that many people use a different flogger for the warm-up and cool-down parts of a scene.

Combo means that a flogger has falls made from a combination of leathers, usually half are suede and half are oiled leather. This can provide a very pleasant mixture of sting and thud sensations in a single blow. Deer skin is thin as cloth, light as a feather, and soft as silk.

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It has a very light thud with virtually no sting to it. Elk is soft like suede, and a bit thicker than cow hide. Buffalo American Bison is very heavy, often three to four times as thick as cowhide, and gives a deep thud with little sting. Not recommended for the weak-of-arm to wield for any length of time, or to be used on the easily-bruised unless you like to wear your stripes as badges of pride. Rabbit is softer than deer skin and almost always has the fur still attached. Great for anyone who is into sensation play. Non-leather floggers made of chain, nylon straps, rubber strands, and various types of rope are other options.

The list of possible materials is endless. Evaluate the heaviness of the material, its flexibility, roughness, and how easy it is to grip.

Parts of a flogger

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BDSM Floggers (how to choose and use a flogger)